Letting Out the Waist
As previously discussed in section Getting the Proper Fit, if you purchase a girdle to fit your hips, the waist will probably be too small. And a girdle that is too small (tight) around your waist or ribs is uncomfortable, and it becomes increasingly troublesome as the day wears on. To solve this problem, you must "let out" the waist.
New Girdle Purchase
Another problem with a too-tight waistband (or top edge) is that it makes it nearly impossible to evaluate how a new girdle feels in the tummy area where it really counts. The compression at the top edge gives the wearer the false impression that "this girdle is really firm", when, in reality, only the top edge is firm. It's nearly impossible to tell what the rest of the girdle feels like under these circumstances.
The Gusset
The way to "let out" the waist on a girdle is to add a gusset. A gusset is a triangular shaped piece of stretch material or elastic that is sewn into the top of the girdle. It does two things actually:
- It let's out the waist of the girdle, and
- It helps conform the garment to the natural flare of the upper body. The more flare that you have, the larger gusset you will need.
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Before and After The photos to the right clearly demonstrate the benefit of adding
a gusset(s). The photo on the left shows skin/fat oozing over the
top edge of an un-altered girdle. The photo on the right shows marked
improvement simply by adding a gusset. This girdle would have been
better served by adding two smaller gussets instead of one large
one. |
Before
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After
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Gusset Guidelines
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Short vs Long Gussets The objective of a gusset is to loosen the top edge of a girdle without affecting the firmness across the tummy, and this is best accomplished with one or more short gussets. Long gussets should NEVER be used, because they dip down into the
tummy area and decrease the firmness of the girdle. The girdle to
the right has gussets that are way to long. I aligned the girdle
on the bedspread with the middle line intersecting the bottom point
of the gussets. Then I turned the girdle over using the same grid
lines, and you can see that the gussets are directly in line with
the tummy area. These gussets have compromised the firmness of the
girdle where it is needed most. You'll have to enlarge these photos
for a better view. |
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Gusset Ratios The following table offers guidlines for gusset ratios. Guidelines are approximations and you can modify them slightly if necessary. The shorter you can make the gusset, the better. The gusset ratio on the grey girdle above is incredibly 2" x 7.5". By the way, this chart was my brain child, but it was constructed from my experience with many, many gussets.
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 2" x 3.5" Ratio |
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Two are Better Than One Avoid gussets wider than 4 inches because the extra vertical length compromises the firmness of the girdle. If you need to let out 4 inches or more, it is best to install two or more short gussets. This is exactly what was installed in the Custom Maid 299 to the right. This idea was provided by a reader in the UK, and he was right on target. |
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Determining How Much Gusset You Will Need
Method 1: Using your hip measurement
If you purchased a girdle using your hip size, determine the waist size
of that garment in the chart; it will be smaller than your natural waist
measurement. Simply add the number of inches to this to bring it up to
your actual waist measurement. For example: Let's say your hips are 38
inches and your natural waist is 32 inches. You go out and buy a Rago
6210 size M to fit your hips. Looking at the chart, you can see that this
girdle was made for a 28 inch waist, so you need to add a 4 inch gusset
for the girdle to fit you properly. And if the girdle has a very high
waist, it might need a little larger gusset because the waistband sits
higher than the natural waist, possibly on the rib case. If your chest
flairs dramatically, add another inch or two to the gusset.
Method 2: Using your waist measurement
If you purchased a girdle one or two sizes smaller than your natural waist,
use simple arithmetic to determine the dimensions of the gusset you need.
For example, if you purchased a size XL (32) and you have a 34 inch natural
waist, you will need to add a 2 inch gusset. And if the girdle has a very
high waist, it might need a little larger gusset because the waistband
sits higher than the natural waist, possibly on the rib case. If your
chest flairs dramatically, add another inch or two to the gusset.
Gusset Material
- Material from old girdles. This was used in the photos below.
- Lycra type material, double thickness.
- Girdle material from a supplier. Unfortunately, I have not been able
to find a supplier.
Adding a 4 inch gusset to a Rago 6210:
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Split the girdle down the back. This Rago 6210 already had a small gusset from the manufacturer, but the girdle needs a bigger one. |
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Spread the split then cut a swatch of stretch material to cover it. If the swatch material is thin, double it. Make a double hem at the top of the swatch. |
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Spread the split then pin the swatch to the girdle (hem first), then sew it. You can pin the swatch on the inside or the outside. I chose the outside, similar to Rago. |
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After the gusset has been sewn on one side, turn the girdle over. Draw a line parallel to your sew line, about 1/2 inch away. Being careful not to damage the girdle, cut along this line with a pair of scissors. |
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Sew along the new edge to complete the installation. |
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Wearing the girdle with the completed gusset, notice that there is no skin oozing over the top. Originally, this girdle was not comfortable; now it's great. By the way, this girdle would have been better served with the installation of two small gussets instead of one large gusset. |